Introduction to Focused Travel and Fish Sauce Discovery
I'm a CIA educated cook,
molded during the Age of Le Nouvelle Cuisine and California-Mediterranean movement of the 1980s and 90s, and matured by 20 years as an instructor at the CIA in
Hyde Park. I cook, I eat, I travel, I learn, I teach.
Why Travel?
Educational travel has been shown to provide
multiple, significant, positive outcomes.
In describing the long-term effects of a culinary “cooks tour” for CIA students which I led in 2005, Social Psychologist Dr. David Livert writes:
“Understanding
a cuisine requires an exploratory stance: consuming food in a variety of
settings, exploring food markets and interacting with sellers, and
understanding food preparation through interaction with other cooks. A cook’s
tour of Vietnam thus required participants to not only consume novel dishes and
ingredients, but to extensively interact with locals, despite any intergroup
anxiety arising from intercultural contact…. Still in the early phase of their career—the average age of
respondents during the retrospective interviews was 30—most have already
attained a noteworthy level of success. Travelers consider the trip a critical
event in their personal and professional development.”[1]
Why Fish Sauce? “Fish
sauce is the duct-tape of the kitchen” – my quote
For
years, I’ve been fascinated by the ability of fish sauce to enhance and enrich
flavor and mouth feel. Fish sauce, used judiciously, can fix almost any savory
preparation, elevating a dish from “ok” to “delicious”.
Although
generally considered to be a “high sodium” ingredient itself, using fish sauce
in place of salt helps reduce total sodium consumption while enhancing the perception
of flavor intensity.
The
findings of the current study also support previous research on the taste
effect of acid oligopeptide fraction in fish protein hydrolysate (Fujimaki and
others 1973), where the researchers reported that fish sauce added a remarkable
brothy flavor and pleasant aftertaste in foods. It was also confirmed by
subsequent research that fish sauce contains a high molecular weight fraction
which likely transforms the perception of primary taste intensity and flavor
profile of foods (Ueda and others 1997) [2]
What
is Fish Sauce?
Vietnamese – nouc mam Cambodian
- teuk trie
Thai – nam pla Lao
– padaek
Philippine – patis Korean
– Aekjeot
Chinese (pinyin) - yú lù Latin –
garum (later – liquamen)
Modern Italian
– colatura di alici Japanese
– gyosho (generic, w/several sub-types)
Essentially, fish sauce is made by combining whole, fresh, live
fish with sea salt. Good
quality fish sauce is typically made from a single variety (depending upon region) of small, oily fish from the anchovy or
mackerel family. It’s important that the fish are alive and containing their
viscera, with some formulas requiring added viscera, as enzymes
in the gut are responsible for dissolving the fish proteins to a liquid state,
while the salt (typically 15-25% by weight) act to inhibit dangerous bacteria
from spoiling the mixture[3].
After 3-18
months of fermentation (based upon local custom and taste), a clear amber
liquid is drawn from the fermenting vessels and bottled for sale. Clarity,
color, aroma, taste, and flavor are defining characteristics of quality fish
sauce. Additionally, superior grades may contain as much as 30-40 g nitrogen
per liter [4],
and are designated as such on the label with the notation “30°N”, “40°N”, etc.
As
displayed above, fish sauce crosses borders throughout all of East Asia and
into the Mediterranean. Regional differences may yield
results which vary widely in salinity, flavor, pungency, and texture, but for
the purposes of this research I’ll focus on the most familiar and approachable
style – clear running, amber colored, salty, umami.
As I
encounter different regional variations and brands in southern coastal
Vietnam, I will collect samples, use the tasting sheet displayed below, and conduct blind tastings with associates here in Vietnam and, if
packaging and transport will allow, subsequent tastings with colleagues and,
hopefully, students at the CIA campus in Hyde Park.
Additionally, this Blog will act
as an on-line journal which I'll update almost daily to comment on the
food, culture, and people I encounter. As technology allows and is available, I'll include photos and video to enhance the story. I hope you find it interesting and
become inspired to travel to live and to learn.
Full Disclosure: This trip, and the research associated with it, has been funded in part by Red Boat Fish Sauce, Phu Quoc, Vietnam and Milpitas, California http://redboatfishsauce.com/fish_sauce.html
Tasting Sheet For Vietnamese Fish Sauce 2017
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Brand (when identified)
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Color
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Clarity
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Aroma
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Taste/Flavor
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Body
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Finish
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Notes
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